We recently had Anne Londez in our studio and she was teaching us how to make off mandrel glass goddess beads Lucio Bubbaco style. However, one thing I did find is with no hole how do you wear it? while some of us (Emily Lake) is the master at loops many of us need the hole to string it. I found this amazing video tutorial, the music is nice although it doesn’t help with hearing what she is saying but of course with use creative pictures mean a 1000 words … enjoy

Have any of you tried to use Raku frit or stringers? I guess the same could be said for using Chalcedony from Gaffer. I have recently tried the Raku frit from Annie Rose (called iris frit) and had a terrible time getting it to pop in colour. I have not had any luck with the stringer so found either frit or creating an entire bead from the glass as the answer. Robyn Thomas recently did this in my studio with the Tag glass she imported from overseas. I guess the same steps could apply to Double helix although Karen Irwin could add her tips to this post as she has a lot of experience with silvered glass. So I hopped online and trawled around the forums to see what I could find. Here’s a summary of my findings.

One of the most important steps to getting the colours right is to ensure on your first application you use a neutral flame. very often these reactive colours will only change colours once or twice and tend to lose their appeal if they are worked too long. The trick is to create your bead in the shape you want it. If you are using a full rod of reactive glass either Raku, Double Helix or Tag then creating the bead and shaping it in a neutral flame is of utmost importance. If you are using a base bead then once it is shaped add your stringer or frit. Typically at this stage the reactive glass will be a brownish tint and nothing exciting.

Then you reduce your propane/lpg (NB leave the oxy as is) until the candles are short and ficussed then bring the bead into the flame in the area where your bead is licking against the candles. If you see a metallic sheen on the surface you have too much propane. The surface of the bead will start to go a weird cloudy colour, at this point remove the bead from the heat and wait until the glow leaves the bead (Donna holds her beads under the table in the shadow to know when the glow has left her beads before she puts them in her vermiculite which I think is an excellent way to know for sure).

Once you have lost the glow flash the bead in the flame until the surface darkens. At this point you can hold the bead in the flame as you would to fire polish your tool marks out i.e. don’t have the whole bead hot or you return to square one. The first shift in colour should be reds and oranges the second should be blues and greens, each time you repeat the process you are diminishing the ability for the glass to shift so be wary of doing this more than 3 times until you get comfortable with the colours shifts.

Helen Moore once told me that in order to get the blues and Greens from Gaffer Chalcedony she actually held the bead in the candles then held the bead in front of the fan to cool it so you can get away with really abusing it of course always being mindful of cracking!

If  Helen, Robyn or Karen want to add their thoughts please do so as it would be great to hear from those who have success with reactives. Otherwise Give it a go and participate in our monthly challenge…

Star Implosion – Helen and I came across some images on glassartists.org and wondered how did she do that

Helen found a free tutorial online with instructions… Here it is

First off, let me thank Mary Lockwood for her implosion instructions, and Amy Trescott for the directions to her astounding beads, all right here on lampworketc.  When I tried to follow Amy’s directions, I had a bit of a mess on my hands, but could see the potential. It got me thinking about the implosion directions I had used many months ago, and I came up with a plan. Nothing so beautiful as Amy’s beads, but something I could work with. I was pretty excited, and I know there’s someone out there who can take this and run with it. So I thought I’d go ahead and put it out there. Well here goes- I hope the directions make sense. I have no camera or photographer, so you’ll just have to put up with my crude drawings. (Helen has created these images so photos below are from Helen Moore)

I started thinking about the problem of seeing the mandrel hole last night, and came up with a change to this tutorial. Instead of winding on the small clear bit to the right of the black, simply make the black part longer, then implode over it. This should give you a nice background for the whole bead while covering up that mandrel hole.

   I used three main color groups of glass for these beads, plus black and clear. Of course you can try more, though this seems about right for a first try. In each color group you will need one solid and one clear rod, more if you’re feeling adventurous.

You’ll start your bead by making a series of three winds on your mandrel. In this picture, the section on the left begins as a clear pea-sized bead. Melt this into a truncated cylinder with nicely shaped ends, then add a couple more winds of clear to make a small disk. Next to this you will add a short cylinder of black glass. To the right of the black glass, add a short wrap of clear glass (or more black). The three sections should be touching each other, with the section on the left staying in a disk shape.

Now you’re ready to start adding colors. What you’re trying to do is basically to make a star on top of the black glass. None of the colors will be totally melted in, though they should all be made to blend after application. So, add the solid color that you want at the larger end of your implosion first. You should put at least five dots around the black core, leaving a bit of space between the dots. Melt down a bit and add the transparent of the same color group and melt some. Add dots of clear or a pale transparent of the same color group on top of these dots. At this point you can add some dots of clear between the piles of built up colored dots to keep them separated, though it’s not necessary. Now you will do the same thing with the other two color groups, adding the dots maybe just slightly to the right of your original group, and a layer of clear between, melting together as you go. Just keep in mind that you’re making a star on top of that black cylinder. The clear layer adds to the petal-like effect, and keeps the colors separated.

Once you have all of your colors dotted on, you will have a star-shaped bead on top of your black core bead. Now comes the part I probably can’t draw a picture of (though I did try). You will need to expand your clear disk by adding two or three wraps, and then begin inching the star and the disk closer to each other. I use my small mashers for this. It must be done slowly and carefully so as not to break your bead release. You will mash them closer, add another wrap or two of clear to your disk, then inch them closer again. Continue wrapping your clear disk until it is sticking up above the star by at least two wraps. Melt the disk and star together, mashing together if necessary to speed things along a bit. Once the star and disk are all of a piece, and there are no ridges in the clear disk, you are ready to implode.

Heat evenly all the way around, aiming your flame at the rim of the disk while pointing the mandrel down (for this I have no picture). This is best done rather slowly with an eye to keeping the bead evenly heated, though you may need to spin the bead rather quickly at times to lengthen the disk and keep it from melting down before you’re ready. Now you will basically be following the directions from step four on for a regular implosion bead as explained by Mary Lockwood here on lampworketc. You want to be sure the glass melts together from the disk end down to try and keep from trapping bubbles.    

This will give you a nice cone-shaped bead. You may want to decorate the small end of the bead somewhat to hide the mandrel hole. So far, I haven’t succeeded in re-shaping this type of bead and keeping the implosion effect. There are a lot of possibilities for this type of bead- more complicated star shapes, or another shape with a clear disk melted over it.

Hell’s teeth, this website is a collective of tutorial videos, you can even learn how to break into a vending machine of course if you want to… alas they have a whole section on glass, thought I’d share it

http://www.wonderhowto.com/fine-art/glass-video/

I found this amazing link from The Flow Magazine and thought to share it, http://www.theflowmagazine.com/tutorials.htm

It has a pdf link to Kimberley Affleck’s famous Sea Horse!!!!! http://www.theflowmagazine.com/pdf/Affleck-Seahorse.pdf

and many others. I got introduced to this magazine thorugh Kathy Servians unbelieveable collection of books and mags so thanks heaps Kathy you’re a babe!