Please visit www.gallery36.co.nz and check out the article about our upcoming exhibition. x isla

BEAD ARCHAEOLOGY Appetiser #1:
Bead Archaeology is just around the corner now, and what an amazing opportunity for our glass community to take an ancient form of bead-making/jewellery construction and re-create it into something with a contemporary point of view!  I am really looking forward to what those of us who have chosen to take part will submit, and can’t wait for our opening to see what everyone else is ‘digging up’.

As I am teaching jewellery construction at the exhibition, I am currently working on the lesson developments of the jewellery construction classes.  One of these classes is an African Ndebele Cuff (to be taught on my behalf by Deborah Smith of Beads Glorious Beads on February the 5^th at the Art Station).  Not wanting to bypass the invitation for us all to share a bit about our chosen ancient technique, I wanted to take the opportunity to share with you all a little of the colourful (and also sad) history of the Ndebele tribe of Africa, and what I have ‘uncovered’ about the history of their beading so far.  But before I do…..

Did you know?…..

That the earliest known bead production originated in Africa?

The most extensive evidence of early bead production and use has been found in Africa.  The oldest beads that have been discovered are drilled Ostrich egg shells dating back 280,000 years ago!  In addition to ancient beads, prehistoric paintings of humans wearing elaborate beadwork have been discovered on cave walls in South Africa and the Sahara desert.

Beads were among the earliest items ever used for domestic and religious purposes and for body adornment.  They were also used as an expression of social identity and in religious practices.

Did you also know?…. 

The ancient Egyptians are thought to have been the first to peddle glass beads to Africa some 3,000 years ago?
These beads were used in exchange for gold, ivory and slaves.  (Look out for my second instalment in a week or so that will dig into the history of ancient Egyptian bead making practices!).  Glass beads were valued in Africa as they were products of technology that was unknown in Africa at the time.

Glass beads were transported by Phoenician Mariners who carried cargo to every port along the North African coast and to the ancient kingdoms of West and Central Africa.  Beads became a precious commodity in their own right, and became a symbol of status and political power.  They even became a form of communication!

Beadwork as a form of communication?…….
Beadwork became incorporated into clothing (particularly women’s clothing) and provided information such as social or marital status.  Young girls of a tribe also used beads to send small beaded ‘love letters’ to their suitors – the meaning of which is determined by the placement and use of colour.  Red used in a certain way would communicate intense passion or love, and used in another way red would represent anger or heartache.  Similarly the colour yellow used one way communicated wealth and industry, and in another way it spoke of withering away.  Colours and meaning varied from tribe to tribe.

Beadwork was also used to portray significant events throughout life. Mothers would make beaded fertility dolls for their daughters, which were destroyed after the daughter had her first child.

Many of these traditions continue among the Ndebele people of today.

Who are the “Ndebele”?……
The Ndebele are a cultural group living in northeast South Africa in an area called the Transvaal or KwaNdebele, northeast of the capital Pretoria.  They were originally part of the migration of Bantu cultural groups from Central and East Africa into Southernmost Africa around 300-400 AD.  Part of this migrating tribe branched off in the 1820’s, and as they migrated north to Zimbabwe other clans were absorbed into the group.  The current Ndebele population nowadays is approximately 2.2 million people.

The smaller Ndundza tribe of the nation of Ndebele are the tribe that are primarily thought to be the developers of the versatile Ndebele stitch.  They were defeated by Boer (Dutch) settlers in 1885, and for five years were slaves on Boer farms.  Freedom came in 1890, but to this day the Ndundza have been dependant on Boer farmers for work.  The Boer seized all of the good farmland and the Ndebele were left largely landless.  They suffered much during the reign of Apartheid, and with the loss of their land and people also came the loss of much of their heritage of beadwork.

The surviving samples of ancient Ndeble beadwork is now only traceable as far back as the late 1800’s and can be seen in the forms of photographs depicting beadwork and also from surviving samples from the time.  As such, its exact age is officially unknown, however it would be safe to assume that this form of intricate bead-working has an ancient tradition prior to the 1800’s….read on 

What is Ndebele Stitch?…..and how old is it?
The Ndebele motif is a zigzag pattern of short parallel slanted rows of seed beads that line up in one direction and down in another.

Now here is an interesting bit of information …are you feeling ‘sleuth-ish’?  The zig-zag motif is an ancient design which can be traced back to Egyptian gold chains and textiles….are you drawing the same conclusions as I am?  If glass beads in Africa came with the ancient Egyptians as far as 3,000 years ago, then it stands to reason therefore that the first developments of Ndebele stitch possibly dates back that far too!!  Could Ndebele stitch have originally been modelled off the zig-zag designs the ancient Egyptianians bought with them in the form of their gold chains and textiles?

The Ndebele are known to have incorporated this zig-zag motif into their beadwork, textiles and as painted motifs on the outside of their houses too.

Nowadays, the zig-zag motif is used throughout diverse cultures globally, and is seen in many forms ranging from embroidery, crochet, knitting, textiles, basket-weaving and mat weaving, to chain manufacture, beaded items and many many other things.  It is also now referred to by other names too, such as ‘Herringbone’ or ‘Basketstitch’. 

African Beadwork today:
Today in Africa you will still often see tribes-people involved in creating beautiful crafted pieces using beads, sometimes on the road sides as they await customers.  These beaded items can include useful items such as beaded bowls or more decorative items that are often highly prized in other nations.

Will you think twice about the fascinating heritage of African Beadwork and Ndebele stitch the next time you bypass a Trade Aid shop?  I certainly will!

Bead Archeology Exhibition
Art Station Gallery, Auckland. Feb, 2011

Trade or Slave Beads were decorative glass beads used between the 16th and 20th century as a currency to exchange for goods, services and slaves. Made for explorers and traders in the African continents, these beads were manufactured throughout Europe. The production of Trade Beads became so popular that the beads were used as ballast in slave ships for the outbound trip.

Millefiori (thousand flowers) beads from Venice were most commonly traded and were produced by creating flowers of stripes from glass canes that were then cut and molded onto a core of solid colour.

The success of this form of currency can be largely attributed to the high intrinsic value African people put on decorative items. Wealth sand social status could be easily determined by the quality, quantity and style of jewellery worn.

These beads were also broken up and remade by local craftspeople using similar techniques to those taught by Greg in his ‘Roll-up Bead’ workshops. You can check out the project outline or book the class on the Art Station website.

Bead Archeology Exhibition
Art Station Gallery, Auckland. Feb, 2011

The earliest types of glass objects found in China are polychromatic eye beads. These beads are from excavated tombs in the Warring States periods (early 5th century BC) to the early Western Han period.

Most beads have a monochrome glass body covered by several layers of coloured glass. The layers of different coloured glass are applied in alternating fashion to produce concentric circles resembling eyes.

In beadmaking, what is new is often old. The ‘Chinese Eye’ or ‘Warring State’ bead has become very popular over the last few years and we would like you to consider a modern interpretation of this ancient bead style.

Lisa made a version of the Warring States bead for the bead auction a few years ago (see below) and I was lucky enough to win it.

I am taking an afternoon workshop introducing students to Warring States beads, you can check out the project outline or book the class on the Art Station website.

A very quick invite to Metonymy, a collaborative exhibition where writers and artists are paired in an two month blind date to create a unique and innovative work of art.

I am paired with Poet Miriam Barr, and we have created a series of fused glass stick charts. Pathways is a series of seven glass wall sculptures influenced by pacific navigational charts. These objects were made from sticks, bound in geometric patterns that depicted sea currents, the stars and the islands. Instead of representing topography, these charts mapped a journey through ever-changing ocean swells.

An invitation to the opening is below and it would be great to see you there. If you can’t make it but like the work, check out my blog Island Glass. If you click on the Metonymy link there is an artist statement and some more images.

www.isla.co.nz